Guide Lines to building your kit

Hey Everyone. Before I go on this does not deal with anything gas, the weapons and manufacturers are all from an aeg standpoint. I have noticed that some of you have some basic questions when it comes to what kind of gear, manufacturer, and fps to have on your gun. For the new members I have been airsofting for a very long time and I have owned just about every manufacturer out there. If you have any questions ping me on facebook. For beginners or people just flat out new to airsoft and the team you should consider the following:

1. THINK ABOUT YOUR STRONG SUITES: Recognizing your skills and what you excel at from a tactical standpoint is huge. Being able to tell what you are and aren’t good at will help make you a better airsoft player, make the team stronger, and help guide you in a direction for your kit. Once you realize what your strong points are begin to work an airsoft roll around those skills. For example if you don’t like to move around a lot, you are quiet, like to wait for the good setup/ambush than recon/sniper would be a good fit.
2. DECIDE ON A GUN: This part will be split up into multiple parts. The first part is fps ratings while the second part is manufacturers. If you are serious into getting into airsoft then I would never suggest going with a cheap clone gun as just about every clone gun I have seen has failed except for Facas’ SCAR. If you decide to ignore this warning then expect your gun to fail or the fact you are going to have to upgrade the internals on the gun so it can shoot better.

The spec’s that you want on your gun definitely depend on your roll, budget, and who makes the gun. Obviously if you are trying to be an LMG then keep your fps from 330-380fps. A TM weapon you can get away with as low as 280fps because their hop-ups are great. Ideally thought keep your fps from 320-380fps. Once you get over 400fps you have to deal with restrictions on how close you can shoot someone. Forget ROF, ROF only matters for an lmg as you will be suppressing. I say forget rof because I have seen people with 20+ bbs rof and still not able to hit their target.

The big manufacturers from an AEG standpoint are: TM, CA, ICS, G&G, G&P, KWA, ARES, Systema, Magpul, and VFC
a. TM: Tokyo Marui is one of the top manufacturers out there. They make some of the very best hop up units and their gearboxes will last through the apocalypse, they also offer some very fun to shoot electric blow back aeg’s. The hop-ups are great; even though their fps ratings are low 280-330fps (depending on model and where you look) the hop up is so great that it gives you the range of most 350-380 fps weapons. The only thing to be cautious of is not all TM weapons are full metal, only select TM’s are full metal inside and out. For the ones that aren’t full metal internally do not worry as 6 of my TM’s aren’t full metal internally (only plastic is the bushings) and they have never failed me yet (just want to stay away from an upgraded spring). The TM’s that aren’t full metal externally do look nice but they creak, basically gripping the gun hard will produce a plastic creak; however they newer models are much better about this (my mp7 is solid as a rock). TM does have a great line of weapons but their M4/M16 line is lacking. The full metal one’s are few in numbers and will give you no issues. The rest of TM’s M4/M16 line is mostly a plastic abs construction externally and their weak point is in the body. For example my TM SR-16 snapped on me one day in combat because the rear pin you pop out on the M4/M16’s was a wafer thin plastic piece that had a very thick metal pin holding it in place. The thin plastic snapped, I can make a poor man repair on it by epoxying some metal washers over the thin plastic and problem solved (as the gear box still functions flawlessly on it). These are the only issues I have come across with TM’s in my time and passing of friends. Too put things in perspective I own 7 TM AEG’s, all of which range from 6-11 years of age. I have had no internal issues with their guns at all and they have all been used extensively. I would recommend TM in a heart beat if you have enough money for the full metal TM’s, they are more expensive than most of the manufacturers here.
b. G&P: This is a great manufacturer, for a little while they where producing mediocre weapons but they have seriously stepped up their came in the past 6 years. G&P makes exclusively American weapons. They make just about every forum/version of the M4/M15/M16 you can possibly imagine. They a offer quiet a few different M249, M14’s and have a couple different variants of the stoner 63. These guns have stunning externals and have licensed trade marks for Colt, Stoner, USMC, Navy…etc. The body can take a pounding as my G&P M16A3 is over 6 years old now and has hardly any marks on the body. Their stocks are solid, they are designed to be lightweight and have a ton of room for batteries. This may sound silly but many manufacturers give you minimal space in the stock for a battery so you end up wrestling to get the battery in the gun. The majority of G&P weapons are full metal inside and out, and their internals are top notch. In the 4 G&P’s I have owned I haven’t had any internal issues except for my stoner and it just required me tightening a screw by the motor on the bottom of the pistol grip no stripping required. G&P’s also offer well above average performance stock out of the box. The fps ranges on model the lowest is 330fps, highest is 405fps (majority of their weapons are 350-380fps). Even with high fps they manage to give you a very good rof. Over all G&P offers the best bang for your buck by producing great internals, externals, reliability, well above average fps and rof, for a price cheaper than most manufacturers.
c. CLASSIC ARMY: This manufacturer is a very love hate relationship with my experience. The good is that they give you an avg of 330fps, solid hop-up units, and full metal construction for a solid price. I have owned classic army and have had friends that own classic army weapons. I would say the biggest success story was Kyle with CA. Everyone else I know, including myself, haven’t been so lucky. Me personally I no longer have a working classic army weapon (bushings are fried after 3 years of moderate use). My friends on the other hand, one had the same gearbox issue as me after 2 years of ownership and the rest had the consistent issue of the fire selector switch falling off on the (G36 line and the CA33E). As far as the paint goes on the metal body for the M4/M16 line its cheap…really cheap. Not cheap in its looks but cheap in the since that the paint will chip off from thorns, or bb’s hitting your gun. I can’t necessary never recommend CA but I think there is much better out there for the price.
d. ICS: ICS used to have their issues around 6-8 years ago but things seem to change. They seem to be able to provide solid fps in reliable weapons. The construction is metal and some of their weapons (m4 and M16’s) have a forward assist that decompresses the springs which is so cool to me. I would take ICS over CA any day of the week. I have herd instances of gearbox failures but that was a while ago as of late nothing is coming across my radar and they earn my seal of approval. It’s a good weapon to start with for a solid price.
e. G&G: I have never owned a G&G weapon and there is a good reason for that. My experience with this is from college and high school from my friends. G&G used to make serious crap, they had decent looking externals but the internals blew. The only G&G weapon that has impressed me is the F2000 they make, it seems well built and only minor issues. I also think the G&G war machine is worth noting due to its low price and decent performance; HOWEVER don’t expect this gun to last forever. Either way I wouldn’t recommend G&G, many better options out there that offer better performance and reliability.
f. VFC: VFC is another love hate relationship. The good with them is STUNNING externals. Even writing stunning in caps can’t describe how pretty and solid feeling the VFC weapons are. They offer standard fps 300-350fps, and ok hop-up units. The ROF is on par with TM and CA. There have been some frequent issues with their M4 Cqb that the gun just isn’t all that reliabile. I never got that impression with my VFC SCAR, but maybe I was lucky. Where I think VFC lacks is performance, shooting my SCAR it felt no better in performance than a standard TM or CA. It doesn’t hold a candle to G&P or KWA in performance. If you do not mind spending a lot of money on a pretty weapon with average performance then by all means go for it.
g. SYSTEMA: Well I don’t own system but I know the company. They make top notch aftermarket parts, so you put this on a gun actually made my systema and you have a gun that performs incredibly well and great reliability (or so I’d imagine). They have a very limited production line so don’t plan on them making the gun you want. The only issue with systema is they are hella expensive; some of their weapons are over 1k. I can’t recommend this unless you are Monty P Money Bags.
h. ARES: I have never owned one but from what I have scene and read they are great weapons. One of our Team members owns a G36K EBB and after 4 or 5 years of use it finally gave up the ghost. I was so impressed by the G36K that I now plan on owning an ARES weapon. I would definitely recommend this gun to anyone looking for solid weapon and a decent budget.
i. MAGPUL PTS: Not particularly too much to choose from Magpul pts in the airsoft world but their weapons are solid. The externals on the masada are top notch, not only are they rugged but they are pretty to look at too. The internals haven’t failed me yet and I haven’t herd of many masada’s (acr) failing. The hop-up unit is solid above average, and the fps is a respectable (350 fps for their rifles). Both Dom and I own Magpul PTS weapons and I think it is safe to say we are more than pleased with there quality. The only issues I have run across with the magpul is their pmags are sometimes made from a different mold so on occasion you may need to sand a pmag some to get it to fit in your weapon. After a discussion on how Magpul PTS is a staple of the saying “you get what you pay for” Both Dom and I would recommend the Magpul PTS line if you have the money as their weapons aren’t the cheapest.
j. KWA: Kwa makes some outstanding weapons. They externals are some of the nicest pieces of machinery I have scene. They are very nice to look at and are very durable. The only issue with their externals is the trademark. The trademarks consist of the KWA logo, 6mm (its calipber), and your unique serial number. Some like this some don’t (I do). Performance wise it’s great. Their M4/M16 line is 400fps out of the box, 20bbs a second and li-po ready. While the rest of their weapons hand around 380fps. Spec wise KWA crushes everything else stock vs stock yet you will have trouble out ranging some enemies that have less fps. The reason why is the hop-up unit is mediocre at best and limits your range. The internals’ on the gun seem to be pretty freaking solid, time will help re-affirm this for me. If you can get past the crap hop up units and you have the budget for one then go for it. KWA AEG’s range from 285-420 dollars depending on the model.


3. ONCE DECIDING ON YOUR GUN, BEGIN WORKING ON YOUR KIT(Plate carrier, camo). There are two types of plate carriers. You have your generic cheaper tactical vests and then you have a legit plate carrier. Your plate carrier will be one of your most important pieces of equipment as the design can often dictate what it is meant for. Some plate carrier suit someone that is a muel, other suits a high speed operator with little restriction. Just look at the designs and see which suits your playing style. One other thing that is important to note is the color of your plate carrier. I would recommend a Ranger green or coyote tan plate carrier as it will work with just about any camo out there. You can go for a multicam pc but before you decide on that be sure you are fine running atacs fg, od, ranger greem, and multicam as your camo choices. I’m sure some of you are thinking about tactical vest’s as they come with mag pouches and etc for a much cheaper price (75-100 dollars). The downfall of a tactical vest is its lack of customization. Tactical vest’s give you generic pouches that can’t be swapped around like pouches for a Plate carrier can. Unless you are hard up for money get a true plate carrier. As far as camo goes we are a multicam team so you will need to get yourself a set asap. Make sure your camo is Ripstop as well. For none team games feel free to wear whatever camo you want.

Once picking your pc and camo start picking the right pouches. Buy the necessary pouches for what you will need first (radio, mag pouches, med kit…). You may also want to look at what others are running and not running to make your kit not only unique but a great addition to the team.
4. TACTICAL GEAR(helmet’s, goggles, boots). Once deciding on the gun, pc, and pouches for the pc your tactical gear is important. We are not picky on what you choose here. You can’t really go wrong when choosing your helmet, hat, and boots, its all about what you want. As far as goggles/facial protection it is your choice. Be sure to read up on your goggles thoroughly as some military grade goggles do not offer the best protection. This may sound crazy but ess goggles do not provide full protection in airsoft, there have been numerous reports of bbs getting inside the goggles buy the inlet for your nose. I doubt a bb would entire with enough force to do any eye damage to you. I personally use the Revision Locust and they are free of these issues (Oakley’s appear to be as well.) Bolle and G&P make some pretty decent goggles as well if you are looking for a cheaper option to Oakley and Revision. You are more than welcome to use sun glasses as an alternative option as long as they have the correct ratings (example being the ess crossbow’s are more than good enough). The reason why I say glasses are an alternative is one of our favorite airsoft spots (ballahack) no longer allows these type of tactical glasses on their field.

This should cover all the questions you need to ask yourself when getting started and setting yourself up for a great kit. If you actually read all of this then you are indeed a trooper.